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Travel Journal: Austin, TX – Day 4

This is the final day of my travel journal from Austin, TX (See previous: Day 1  –  Day 2  –  Day 3). I’m going to catch you up on how I recently spent 4 days in Austin, TX (okay, 3 days + 1 in San Antonio, and actually… the total trip was really only 72 hours due to flight schedules, so this theoretically could all be done in one very busy 3-day weekend):

Day 4 – Tuesday – Austin, TX

I wake up feeling ready to take full advantage of my last day in Austin, which starts with another breakfast with those delicious waffles in the hostel kitchen!

After I check out of the hostel, the first stop B. and I make is at the LBJ Presidential Library, which is a library and museum. I really don’t know much about Lyndon B. Johnson, except that he was the US President during the Vietnam War and that he started the VISTA program. (President Kennedy had the idea of a national service program to help fight poverty in the USA, and President Johnson made it a reality by creating Volunteers in Service to America (VISTA), which later became part of AmeriCorps.)

I see that the front desk cashier has a VISTA pin on her lanyard, so I ask if she’s serving in the program. She says no, then asks if I am. When I say yes, I ask if there’s a discount for current VISTA members. She says no, but then cheerfully points to the pin and says “I got your back though!” which really makes no sense to me at all.

The museum exhibits are located on several floors, so we start at the main floor and work our way up. There’s all the normal exhibits you’d expect from a museum about someone: important life events, background, current national and world events that happened during their lifetime, their hobbies, etc. Then we start getting to the information about his presidency, which includes letters to and from various people, and recorded phone calls (between him and people like constituents, politicians, Former First Lady Mrs. Kennedy, MLK Jr, and others). There’s also an animatronic LBJ statue that moved as it tells you jokes and funny stories that are recordings of stories he actually told.

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Animatronic LBJ – Photo credit: LBJ Foundation via Flickr, used unmodified under CC BY 2.0 license

While I’m watching the statue tell me stories (and trying not to be distracted by a very noisy, robotic sound every time he blinks his eyes), we start hearing a noise like an air raid siren, but B. and I don’t think anything of it, because there’s noise all over the exhibit from the recordings, videos, etc. That is, we don’t think anything of it until a guard walks through clearing the building and asking everyone to leave, in a very firm and urgent voice.

We are directed through the gift shop on the way out, which everyone makes a joke about (even in an emergency they direct you through the gift shop!). It’s totally ridiculous because we pass by the front doors on the way to the gift shop, they’re able to open from the inside in cases of emergency, and they could have allowed a faster exit, but the guard still routes us the other way. Oh well. No one tells us what’s going on, but they do eventually move us all from the area outside the museum to the neighboring building.

After five or ten minutes, a guard comes and tells us we can come back inside. I overhear an employee ask him what happened, and he gives a vague answer about it being a security alarm, and they had thought there was some sort of threat inside the building, but it’s resolved now.

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Some of the “Lady Bird” Johnson area of the museum – Photo credit: LBJ Foundation via Flickr, used unmodified under CC BY 2.0 license

We return to the museum and learn more about LBJ’s presidency and life in the White House, as well as the lives of his family members, like his wife, “Lady Bird” Johnson. There are many things to read, listen to, watch, etc and we start getting tired after a while, so the length of time we spend on each floor gets shorter and shorter, but it’s mostly very interesting and overall a really good museum.

On the way out, we go through the gift shop (since we already know where it is, we might as well check it out, right?) and I buy a few souvenirs. They have the usual replicas of various items important in LBJ’s life, but I’m surprised to find that some of the things they have there are original items, not replicas, like campaign pins, pencils, posters, and other small items. (There are also a few large very expensive originals too, but those are not affordable and would never fit in my carry-on suitcase.)

Before heading to the next stop, I try a food called kolache, which was invented by Czech immigrants to Texas. (B. had purchased a bunch and brought it with him so I could try, since I’ve been telling him I want to eat Austin food.) It’s like a pig in a blanket, with a slightly fluffy pastry wrapped around what tastes like breakfast sausage. I love the pastry, which is a little sweet, airy, and buttery without being too greasy. The kolache makes a good snack, with a mix of savory and salty tastes that isn’t too heavy, but it’s not an amazing-to-die-for food like some people rave about it.

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Our next stop is the Capitol building for the basic 30 min tour. The information is very interesting, and we learn that the building is the largest Capitol building in the USA (by square footage), and while taller than US White House, it’s not tallest capitol in the nation. There are many special features like chandeliers that have the word “TEXAS” surrounding a star, doorknobs that say “Texas” with a star, and certain door hinges that say “Texas Capitol” with a star (are you seeing a theme?). The door hinges are huge (they have to be, they’re on on huge doors), and each hinge weighs 7.5 pounds!

Texas Capitol

Details on a hinge on the door of the House of Representatives chamber – Photo and caption credit: Phil Roeder via Flickr, used unmodified under CC BY 2.0 license

**Good to know: The Texas Capitol also has free specialty themed tours that seem really interesting, but these are only offered during certain times of the year and at certain times of day, so if you’re interested, definitely plan ahead. In addition to the regular tour, today the specialty tours include Women in Texas History and the Heroes of the Texas Revolution. Other specialty tours throughout the year include the Rest in Peace tour (haunted ghost stories, in October), The Bravest of the Brave: Celebrating Texas Veterans tour (Texas veteran contributions from Texas Revolution to Iraq, in November), and a holiday tour (architecture that inspired holiday decorations of the Capitol, plus learn about holiday traditions of cultural groups in Texas, in December). There’s also an art tour available on request. You can find more information about available times and current themed tours on the Texas Capitol website.

Before we leave the Capitol grounds, we look around at some of the statues we couldn’t see in the dark on the first night, and then head to H-E-B (local grocery store) for gifts. This is definitely my recommendation for Texas souvenirs at affordable prices if you’re looking for food gifts that are really “Texas.” The company started over 100 years ago in Texas, and is now the largest privately owned company in the state (they have over 76,000 employees and more than 340 stores in Texas and Mexico).

For lunch (and my last stop in Austin before the airport) we go to Javi’s Best of Tex Mex, and B. asks the waitress what makes a food Tex-Mex vs. Mexican. She tells us it’s “the type of food, like tacos, burritos, and things like that, more than Mexican dishes like mole.” B. gets nachos and I get fish tacos which comes in flour tortillas. The food tastes good, but it still seems like B. wonders why I’ve been so insistent on eating Tex-Mex this whole trip (Tex-Mex! as in Texas! I know it’s not generally thought of as great food, but it’s fun to eat something Texan while in Texas).

Amy's Ice Cream

Amy’s Ice Creams menu – Photo credit: Wayne Truong via Flickr, used unmodified under CC BY 2.0 license

Over the past four days, I’ve received multiple recommendations to try Amy’s Ice Creams, so I want to stop there before leaving, but we’re too full to go right after lunch. As it turns out, there’s a location in the airport, so after B. drops me off, I wait in the security  line, find my gate, and I finally feel ready for dessert. I tell the the person at the counter it’s my first time trying this ice cream shop and ask what she likes best. She replies that the Mexican Vanilla ice cream is “what we’re known for,” and describes it as a “more intense vanilla.” Because I don’t feel like plain vanilla ice cream, no matter how intense it’s supposed to be, I order the smallest scoop of Oreo flavor (made of Mexican Vanilla as the base, with Oreos crumbled into it). It’s very rich and thick, but the flavor is more cake batter than vanilla, so I’m a little disappointed.

Still, I’ve made the most of my time in Austin, even using my airport time to continue the experience. It’s been a busy (but fun!) trip and I’m definitely ready for some rest at home!

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7 Ways to spend the day in Olympia, WA

A visit to Washington State’s capital city makes a great day trip. Full of history, it is the home of many “firsts” for Washington State, including the first post office, first public school, and the first fire department (all in the 1800s). Typically a 1-2 hour drive from Seattle (depending on traffic), it is also accessible by public transportation, Greyhound, and Amtrak.

Here’s just a few of the many things you can do in this city.

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Take a tour of the Washington State Capitol buildings and grounds

The main building (Washington State Legislative Building) took 6 years to build. Since then, it’s been renovated to include 144 solar panels on roof (the largest amount of solar panels on a US state capitol!). It’s fifth-tallest masonry dome in the world and the tallest in North America. There are free, hour-long guided tours of the Legislative Building and free 45-60 minute guided tours of the Governor’s Mansion. There’s also a free shuttle that runs between the Capitol and downtown Olympia.

Watch a movie at the historic Capitol Theater
This Olympia landmark was built in 1924 and has been in continual use as a theater since then. They feature independent, international, and under-represented films, music, and art shows, and also host the Annual Olympia Film Festival which just finished its 32nd year. You can also take a look at the colorful art on the side of the building where they have a free wall for graffiti artists.

Hang out at Percival Landing Park and vote on your favorite sculpture
This waterfront park features a boardwalk and large grassy area that is good for picnics, sports, and hanging out with friends. There’s also a sculpture display featuring local and regional artists. The display changes yearly, and you can vote for your favorite piece. The sculpture with the most votes gets purchased by the city to put on permanent display somewhere else in Olympia after the year is over.

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Washington State Capitol Museum and Outreach Center at the Lord Mansion – Photo credit: Mark Goebel via Flickr – Used unmodified under CC BY 2.0 license

Visit the State Capitol Museum
This museum is located in the Lord Mansion, one of the few true mansions in the city. Although it’s currently closed for renovations, this museum still offers public events and programs like walking tours and lectures.

Take a self-guided walking tour
If you want to learn more about the history of Olympia, you can download guides for self-guided walking tours around the city.

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Explore the Olympia Farmers Market
This year-round farmers market has been open for 40 years and features local food and plants, live music, hand-made craft items, and seven restaurants. Due to the growing seasons, the number of days the market is open varies throughout the year (Thursday through Sunday in April through October, Saturday and Sunday in November and December, and Saturday only in January through March).

Eat at McMenamins Spar Café
Many of the McMenamins locations are in historic buildings, and this Olympia location is no different. Throughout its existence, the building housed several different businesses, including saloons, smoking rooms, a variety theater, a billiard room, a store, and a restaurant with a bar that served famous people like Joan Crawford, Marlon Brando, and Joe Lewis.

Have you been to Olympia? How did you spend your time there?

This post was inspired by Wanderu, who asked me to write a post on my ideas for a day trip from Seattle. You can read about other bloggers’ trips on the Wanderu blog.

Travel Journal: Austin, TX – Day 1

Over the next few posts, I’m going to catch you up on how I recently spent 4 days in Austin, TX (okay, 3 days + 1 in San Antonio, and actually… the total trip was really only 72 hours due to flight schedules, so this theoretically could all be done in one very busy 3-day weekend):

Day 1 – Saturday – Austin, TX

My plane lands at 5:30pm, and my friend B. picks me up at the airport. I check into the hostel (Drifter Jack’s) and even in the few minutes I’m there before we leave, I’m impressed with how friendly and welcoming everyone is. Plus, they have very cool art painted directly on the walls by local artists, giving the hostel a very Austin feeling.

Next, we check out the South Congress neighborhood, known for its unique shops and delicious food. I definitely recommend coming here, especially if you like exploring different neighborhoods within the same city like I do.

It’s very fun to see the Big Top Candy Shop, a store with a giant selection of bulk and packaged candies, an old-fashioned soda fountain, ice cream, and hand-made desserts. I buy a Lollihops candy for my brother (lollipop with hops in it, made by Yakima Hop Candy, which as it turns out, is located in the state I live in, so it’s a bit weird to buy as an Austin souvenir, but I buy it anyway, opting for their chile lime flavor which seems very Texas to me). I also have to get some of their random bulk candies for myself (like a gummy chicken foot! It looks weird and tastes about the same).

Among the other places we explore:

  • Monkey See Monkey Do (a novelty gift shop that seemed like they were low on inventory today, so I can’t really say if this is normally worth a visit)
  • Uncommon Objects (an antique marketplace with a very random and sometimes freaky collection – I see a doll missing part of its head and all of one arm, a taxidermied zebra head, and other strange things, but there are some nicer/more expected things as well – see picture below. Everything is fairly expensive.)

Janette Bibby's space is a dream. Come see the magic! 1512 S. Congress Ave. Austin, TX 78704

A photo posted by uncommonOBJECTS (@uncommonobjects) on

Despite the wonderful smells coming from the nearby restaurants, we decide to go elsewhere for dinner (perhaps motivated by the questionable legality of our chosen parking space). The Moonshine Patio Bar and Grill is supposed to be very good, so we go there, and since they don’t take reservations, we put our name in the list and wait for 2 hours (!) before getting a table. (For part of that time, we walk around Palm Park, attracted by what looks like the ruins of a small castle, but then we stay for a bit when we find a playground with very unique twisty swing-type rides. I’m glad we did that before we ate!) The food ends up being pretty good, but I’m not sure it was worth the wait.

After dinner, we continue our journey by heading toward the Capitol building. The Texas Capitol grounds are beautiful at night. The building is lit up, and so are the trees (not with wrap-around strung lights, but with big spot lights, so you can see the shapes of the branches against the night sky). There are many statues honoring people significant to the history of Texas, and while we’ll have to revisit during daylight to read the signs for some, we’re able to see most of them tonight.

CapitolBuilding-3354.jpgTexas Capitol at night – Photo Credit: nateClicks via Flickr – Used unmodified under CC BY 2.0 license

Finally, we take a walk down to the 6th Street district. I’m not into the party scene, but I want to see what 6th street is all about since people were making such a big deal about it online when I was planning my trip. It was described to me as similar to Fremont Street in Vegas (which I thought felt really scuzzy), but thankfully, 6th Street is less unpleasant. It reminds me of the street full of bars near the campus where I went to school, and is filled with as many people drinking way more than they can handle. It’s not a pleasant experience to end the night with, and I can’t help but feel bad for the people having an even worse night – one person was sick with her head in a very dirty trash can. Like on Fremont Street in Vegas, there are a few people in costumes requesting tips so you can take photos with them, however, unlike on Vegas’ Fremont Street, the guy on 6th Street dressed as Batman is fully clothed. Despite feeling not as uncomfortable as I expected, it still isn’t a place I want to be, and we leave within a few minutes of arriving.

I think we made the most of the first day. It’s very late when I return to the hostel, and I’m exhausted, but I can’t wait to find out what else I’m able to see while in Austin!

Click here to read Day 2.